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After passing through the busy takeaway section, dodging the copper hood on the ocakbaşı grill along the way, we found ourselves in a long, dark room that can seat perhaps 70 people. Here, the walls are burnt orange, the tablecloths heavy and red.

 

Yildiz’s menu isn’t exclusively Turkish; it happily borrows from other Mediterranean cuisines. Starters of yaprak dolma (rice and pine nuts wrapped in vine leaves) were freshly made, but a bit heavy, and seven of them was a lot for an appetiser; a more successful choice was hellim (slices of halloumi cheese grilled to bring out the flavour). But you may care to skip starters, as the complimentary dishes of grilled onion in turnip and pomegranate sauce, and lightly fried chopped onion with chilli powder are reasonably filling in themselves.

 

Tasty, thin pide bread was also replenished without us needing to ask. For mains, a basic adana kebab (an eastern Turkish dish made of mince and cayenne pepper) was flavoursome though slightly stringy, but halep kebab (an adana served over bread with a buttery tomato sauce and mushrooms) was excellent.

 

Currently, Yildiz is on pretty good form; we recommend it for a cheap night out if you’re in the area.